STEP 3. DryFit Safaris

Before you fit the new safaris, protect all important painted surfaces by carefully "masking" the entire window opening, upper 1" of the nose (directly below the windows) and at least as much of the upper dash with painters grade "repositionable" paper masking tape. I stress repositionable paper masking tape as you want to be able to take the tape off in a few hours without taking paint with the tape or leaving a gummy, hard to clean residue. The effect the tape plays is to cushion the surfaces should you (or your nimble assistant) smack the heavy safari against an unprotected surface. For those of you installing polished Aluminum Safaris, or the Stainless Steel variety, we'd suggest you also tape the perimeter of the safari frames to prevent them from getting scratched.

Once taped (you'll thank me later) have your assistant sit inside the bus and help you guide the new safari into the window opening, strap hinge at the top, facing > towards the inside of the bus. Communicate with your assistant while positioning until you both feel the safari is "centered", side to side. Mark 4 points with your grease pencil (2-top, 2 bottom) on the masked window-opening and the same spot on the masked safari frame as registration reference points and slowly remove the safari to a safe resting place.

STEP 4.

Take a break for a sec and look at what you've done. Grab your grease pencil and find the two marks you made on the upper part of the window opening and extend those marks to wrap around the opening lip. What you're about to do is mark where to drill the holes that mount the upper hinge plate. By extending those marks you've made it easier to realign the safari window in it's fully extended position. Ready?

Holding the safari horizontal, position the hinge so that it too lays flat in relational space to the lower roof crown (see top photo). Then with either your punch/drift or phillips screwdriver, find the screw holes in the hinge and gently press a mark through each hole.