If all looks good, mount the bracket according to your specific capabilities. If you're welding (we hope you are) make sure you've cleaned both the bracket and the pillar of all dirt, oil and paint and -make sure- you've covered anything that could burn or melt from the welding. The center (butterfly) Bracket gets positioned the same way as your previous bracket as does the final. Take your time, If you have an accurate tape measure you can verify distances from common points which will aid you in positioning all brackets from a baseline.

The tedious work is over, step back take another breather.

STEP 6. Installing the Safari Window Seals

Each manufacturer of Safaris uses their own specific combination of hardware. IF, during the course of our little tutorial you find bits that don't look what you see in our pictures, well, ooops.. Chances are though, even if the bits looks different, the function is the same.

Now comes the time to talk about supplied window seals so let us mention this again....

A. Safaris Leak... Nature of the beast, no doubt about it.

B. Seals are NOT all alike, good ones leak, bad ones pour. If you want to -minimize-leakage the steps below might help.

FIT = FUNCTION

Kits with the extruded hollow-bulb oblong style seals (you know who you are) need to make sure they orientate the seal weld (the visible area where the two ends are fused together) at the TOP of the window opening.

Kits with the two long pieces of moulding (not joined) with an attached rubber bulb (and you know who you are) should trim any excess length (if they're not too short already) so that there's a final gap of not more than 1/16" and it too should be orientated at the TOP of the window opening.